Leaving Lewis and heading to Aberdeenshire

Iolaire Memorial

On our last day in these beautiful islands,  we explored Stornoway a bit. We parked right at the harbour and were able to get a close look at the Iolaire Memorial.  We had seen it the night before when we were with Jean.  This is a memorial to a very sad story involving the young men coming home from World War I.  According to the information plaque at the site, the ship ran aground at 1:55am on January 1, 1919.  They were so close to shore that they could see the lights from building there. Most of them could not swim and they drowned, so close to home.  I have read that families had tables set for a meal to welcome their sons home but instead had to run to the harbour and watch this tragedy unfold.  This memorial is meant to be a temporary one, but is so simple, moving and beautiful that people have asked for it to stay.  I believe it will be subject to nature though and leave on its own time. The 280 sticks represent the number of passengers on board, the 79 white ones represent the survivors.  There are little lights on the sticks so it is illuminated at night and must be so beautiful. The tide covers the sticks completely when it is in.  There is also a memorial in the exact place where the Iolaire sank. This can be seen clearly when taking the ferry out of Stornoway. Alan saw it, I was inside the dog friendly area with Kenzie!

We also found MacNeil's Bar as mentioned in Peter May’s book The Blackhouse!   It has been a long time since I read the Blackhouse Trilogy by Peter May, but those books made the Outer Hebrides come alive for me and I knew I had to visit them one day.  Sorry it took so long though.

The sign outside the door to MacNeil's offers a husband creche!

MacNeil's is not dog friendly nor does it serve coffee, so I just stayed in long enough to find that out. Maybe one day we can go there and have a drink!  

I think this is The Narrows!

There is also a mention of The Narrows when characters from book "The Blackhouse" take the fight started in MacNeils out to the street - The Narrows.  I accidentally took a photo of what I think is The Narrows.  However, if I had known, I would have taken it at a different angle!

Since we had traveled at such a pace and covered so much in so little time, I was seriously running out of clothes and had no opportunity to do any laundry.  Even if the weather had been better, the only time I could have squeezed this in was when we were located in an area where hanging out washing on a Sunday was frowned upon, and it was Sunday!  So I had the perfect excuse to go to M & Co and buy some new tops!  AND they had a sale on so it was great timing.

Interesting shops all over Stornoway!

Alan and Kenzie had to wait for me
while I enjoyed a bit of
retail therapy!

I love the local butchers in Scotland.  They always
have items that make me what to host a dinner party!

Sad to leave these beautiful islands but it was time to catch the ferry out of Stornoway and head off to Ullapool.  This ferry is only 2 1/2 hours so Kenzie didn’t suffer such boredom as the 5 hour ferry from Oban to Barra.

At this point in our journey, we had no idea where we were going, but this is not unusual. Alan really wanted to return to Aberdeenshire, so we headed east!  I got online and discovered a place to spend the night in Hopeman and it was absolutely wonderful!  West Beach Caravan Park was right on the beach just like it said!  It is darling and well maintained, the management was fantastic and we hope to return here one day.   Alan was out front on "our" beach and discovered a Plover's nest!  I would never have seen it if he had not patiently pointed it out to me!

View from our campsite!

Last Full Day on the Isle of Lewis - Our first trip to the Outer Hebrides

Re-thatching a roof at Gearrannan

We arrived at Gearrannan village first thing in the morning so there were very few people around. This made it very nice to be able to take photos.  Of course, there were never loads of people anywhere we went!  Not sure if this is always the case or because we were travelling in May, before the main tourist season begins.

It is technically free admission to walk through the reception/gift shop but if you want to enter the main house or see the demonstration by a weaver, there is an entrance fee. Well worth the cost of admission too!

Living area, this house has added a fireplace.
So no fire in the middle of the room.

It was so interesting to visit this village after Arnol Village since there is a house here that shows what it really looks and feels like to live in a Blackhouse! There is linoleum on the floors, wallpaper and finished ceilings.  Not so primitive as the impression given at Arnol. However, I believe the smoky atmosphere at Arnol was probably more authentic!  At least for another, earlier time.

This house is similar to the Arnol Blackhouse with the
extra bed in the living area. The main bedroom had
two beds just the same as Arnol too.

Here you can only see one bed, and the
spinning  wheel and a treadle sewing machine  

The cabinet with the dishes is modified to allow it to fit under
the ceiling correctly.  

The weaver was changing from one pattern to another, It is heavy work too!  All the bits and pieces to set up the new pattern, plus just picking up the bolts of cloth.  I don't think I could lift these things. Then there are the 700 or so knots the weaver has to tie when adding the new wool for the new pattern.  Patience is the thing with weaving I believe!

All those knots!

He changed from a beautiful turquoise pattern to a brown one.  I forgot to go back to see how he had gotten on before leaving and wish I had...... It was fascinating, and made me even more aware of how beautiful Harris Tweed comes to be!

This village is also busy with a hostel and bed and breakfast, so there are guests all around!  Many with bicycles.  It must be amazing to stay overnight in this village! Believe it or not, it is also quite peaceful!

As we left this village, we drove right past a man with a European Eagle Owl on his arm!  Alan hit the brakes and we parked immediately. In all the travels we have done in a motorhome, I must admit this was the first time a parking place was right where we needed it to be.  Although I imagine the man with the owl had that pre-planned as we were not the only passersby hitting the brakes!

We leapt out of our vehicle, cameras in hand.  He was wearing a jacket that said Hebrides Falconry, but he said the actual name should be Hebridean Falconry.  He also asked that, if we wanted to take any photographs, to give a donation.  So we did, no hesitation at all!

Ian also confessed that it was only recently the realised his owl friend was female!  All of the signs state "Peter" but he has now changed her name to Petra.  Ian says since he now knows she is female and he talks to her differently, she seems happier.  Ok......

Our donation was sufficient for both of us to hold Petra and take photos of her, but Alan had no desire to hold her, he just wanted to photograph.  And, lucky me, I got to hold her twice.  Yes, she is heavy and so she should be - European Eagle Owls are one of the largest species of owls and females can have a wingspan of over 6 feet!

Then we  headed out to Stornaway for one of the highlights of our trip. What better way to end this amazing journey but to meet our friend, Jean, who treated us to a real home cooked dinner of Steak Pie, potatoes and broccoli!  Boy did that taste good too.  I think she was surprised at how much we ate, but food had been a struggle for us on this trip and she has no idea how wonderful her cooking was. I loved how she apologised at making to many potatoes, but she actually made just the right amount for two hungry travellers!

It was really nice to see Jean again. We had the pleasure of making friends with 2 couples on a cruise to Svalbard in Norway and we still keep in touch and see each other when circumstances allow.  When we met Jean, we walked around Lews Castle for a while and I was so busy talking to her and enjoying her company, I didn't really take any photos.  Then we went to her house and Kenzie became aware of  her two cats. Kenzie thought this was the best house ever..... two cats!  One I never saw and one that stayed on top of the microwave away from Kenzie. But Kenzie appeared to enjoy the thrill of being so near to such exotic creatures!  Jean also very kindly gave Kenzie one of her dearly departed dog's toys - a stuffed hamburger.  Kenzie still loves this toy and it really isn't her usual choice!

The perfect last night on these fabulous islands.

Back to Luskentyre Beach

Our first view of Luskentyre Beach!

Sorry for delay in posting more about our fabulous trip to the Outer Hebrides....I had some problems with my computer and also the photo editing package.  Both all better now!  And while waiting, I discovered these photos from our time in Luskentyre. So felt they had to be added!

After suffering through all the rain on South Uist,
we woke up to this!
Look at the camper in the red jacket - what a wonderful
place to wake up.
The rail is right behind our motorhome and just over the hill -
that is Luskentrye Beach - about a 50 yard walk.

This gives a better idea of where we were.
It also shows the public toilets and, if you look
closely, you will see the honesty box where
you put your £7 fee to stay there.

I had a bit of a head start, but Alan and Kenzie did not
want to miss our first view of this legendary beach!

Primroses were all over the grass on the dunes.

Still the Isle of Lewis - our first trip to the Outer Hebrides

Our next stop was  the Butt of Lewis, which is the most northerly point on the Isle of Lewis.  The beach is accessed by a little road way and we parked next to a van where surfers were donning serious wetsuits.  I imagine the water at this beach would be incredibly cold!   The waves were amazing and it was fun to revisit my high schools days in Florida and spend time watching surfers. There were a few differences though, they had fantastic waves and the weather was cold!

Kenzie was very happy to finally get to a beach on this day!  I think she is going to really suffer when we get home to normal beaches again!

Oh how she loves beaches!

                        I am so glad Alan drives most of the time.  I have no idea how I would cope with these roads!

Our next stop was the Butt of Lewis Lighthouse.  It was a gorgeous location, windy but so picturesque.  The cliffs were tremendous but I didn't stay out as long as Alan.  I was getting hungry and cold!  But still glad we came here!

Butt of Lewis Lighthouse

Ness Post Office

Morgen Gallery

After leaving Ness we planned to visit Gearrannen Blockhouse Village but we stopped along the way at an art gallery with a little coffee shop!   After spending time on these islands, I realised I had not stopped at enough coffee shops!  So Alan and I got the best carrot cake and also enjoyed looking at the beautiful artwork at Morgen Gallery.  In addition to the artwork and cake, Alan saw that book he was so impressed by again, is it a sign?  Saorsa - the Outer Hebrides

There is that book again!

And peat cuttings.....

When we left this fabulous area we intended to visit Gearrannen Blackhouse Village.  The website said it closed at 5 but we got there at 4:30 and it was complete shut!  People stay in the Blackhouses and have keys to get in the gate, but we could only peak over and see the houses.  We will definitely be back the next day!

The Arnol Blackhouse, Isle of Lewis - Our first trip to the Outer Hebrides

42 Arnol Blackhouse at the front door

Our first full day on Lewis, we went to see Arnol Blackhouse, the Butt of Ness and  we tried to go to the Gearrannan Blackhouse village but we got there too late and it was closed.  This will only be about the Arnol Blackhouse though. Why did we do so many things in one day?

I loved seeing this real home before going to Gearrannan. When we did get to Gearrannan the next day, it was so interesting to see the Blackhouse as it actually was lived in, with linoleum floors and wall paper.  I liked seeing how they have changed through the years, but also comparing how they actually looked. And happy to do that in this order.   This house was inhabited until 1964 and the locals had the foresight to save this treasure so people could see what it was like to live here.  The front door, where I am standing, has an entry way and you can go straight, left or right when you enter. Left takes you to the family's living quarters. It was so dark when I entered that I didn't even see the spinning wheel in the corner until I looked at the photo!

There weren't any windows originally, although they added a window in the bedroom in later years.  There is also not a chimney!  The fire was placed in the middle of the main room hanging from a chain.  The smoke went up and through the thatched roof.  The smoke would also keep insects away!  Again, as you drive around the islands, you will see Blackhouses where chimneys have been added.

Looking from the stables side to the entryway and then the door to the living area.

The entryway was used to keep chickens right before the family moved out.  Then, going right from the entry way, was where they keep their animals.  And then straight through was where they stored their grains and things.  Very busy home but warm and efficient.

This is the back door and the house on the right
is the new Whitehouse they moved into!

This type of building was called a Blackhouse. It wasn't based on the colour of the building, but it could have been because it was so dark inside!  When the Scottish Department of Agriculture wanted to improve the islanders' living standards, they offered support through building plans, loans and other things. The houses built then were called Whitehouses.  I was told by the guide that they were also called "Department" houses, but can't find any other reference to that.  Again, not based on the colour of the house, but possibly because they had chimneys.  The family who moved out of this house built their house right next to it.  I had no idea the house I went into to buy my ticket from the National Trust was actually the whitehouse this family moved into!

39 Arnol

Directly across the street is a white house left like it was when that family left. Their blackhouse is right next to it, but in ruins.  This family moved out a few years before the Arnol Blockhouse and no one thought to try to maintain it.  But interesting to see how they just left one home and built the next right next door.  This can be seen all over the islands, not just on the Outer Hebrides!

While I spent lots of time taking in all the information of the history of this area, Alan went to the RSPB site, Loch Na Muilne right next to this. He read there were Phalaropes there and he saw one! Just like that.  How lucky was he?  I think fairly lucky!

We made lunch right there in our motorhome and then went on to the Butt of Lewis and Gearranan Blackhouse Village. These were all so interesting and scenic too, so I am going to wait and add them soon.  Anywhere you go on these isles seems to be more beautiful and amazing than the last places.  How it took us 33 years to get here is beyond me, but I can guarantee, we will be back soon!