Friday, June 14, 2019

The Arnol Blackhouse, Isle of Lewis - Our first trip to the Outer Hebrides




42 Arnol Blackhouse at the front door
Our first full day on Lewis, we went to see Arnol Blackhouse, the Butt of Ness and  we tried to go to the Gearrannan Blackhouse village but we got there too late and it was closed.  This will only be about the Arnol Blackhouse though. Why did we do so many things in one day?


I loved seeing this real home before going to Gearrannan. When we did get to Gearrannan the next day, it was so interesting to see the Blackhouse as it actually was lived in, with linoleum floors and wall paper.  I liked seeing how they have changed through the years, but also comparing how they actually looked. And happy to do that in this order.   This house was inhabited until 1964 and the locals had the foresight to save this treasure so people could see what it was like to live here.  The front door, where I am standing, has an entry way and you can go straight, left or right when you enter. Left takes you to the family's living quarters. It was so dark when I entered that I didn't even see the spinning wheel in the corner until I looked at the photo!









There weren't any windows originally, although they added a window in the bedroom in later years.  There is also not a chimney!  The fire was placed in the middle of the main room hanging from a chain.  The smoke went up and through the thatched roof.  The smoke would also keep insects away!  Again, as you drive around the islands, you will see Blackhouses where chimneys have been added.

Looking from the stables side to the entryway and then the door to the living area.
The entryway was used to keep chickens right before the family moved out.  Then, going right from the entry way, was where they keep their animals.  And then straight through was where they stored their grains and things.  Very busy home but warm and efficient.

This is the back door and the house on the right
is the new Whitehouse they moved into!


This type of building was called a Blackhouse. It wasn't based on the colour of the building, but it could have been because it was so dark inside!  When the Scottish Department of Agriculture wanted to improve the islanders' living standards, they offered support through building plans, loans and other things. The houses built then were called Whitehouses.  I was told by the guide that they were also called "Department" houses, but can't find any other reference to that.  Again, not based on the colour of the house, but possibly because they had chimneys.  The family who moved out of this house built their house right next to it.  I had no idea the house I went into to buy my ticket from the National Trust was actually the whitehouse this family moved into!





39 Arnol


Directly across the street is a white house left like it was when that family left. Their blackhouse is right next to it, but in ruins.  This family moved out a few years before the Arnol Blockhouse and no one thought to try to maintain it.  But interesting to see how they just left one home and built the next right next door.  This can be seen all over the islands, not just on the Outer Hebrides!

While I spent lots of time taking in all the information of the history of this area, Alan went to the RSPB site, Loch Na Muilne right next to this. He read there were Phalaropes there and he saw one! Just like that.  How lucky was he?  I think fairly lucky!



We made lunch right there in our motorhome and then went on to the Butt of Lewis and Gearranan Blackhouse Village. These were all so interesting and scenic too, so I am going to wait and add them soon.  Anywhere you go on these isles seems to be more beautiful and amazing than the last places.  How it took us 33 years to get here is beyond me, but I can guarantee, we will be back soon!



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